Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
